3 Exclusive Recipes From London’s Famed Chiltern Firehouse (2024)

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Food

By Christina Pérez

3 Exclusive Recipes From London’s Famed Chiltern Firehouse (4)

Roasted chicken, kale, and bread puddingPhoto: Courtesy of Peden + Munk

Some restaurants are magically, inexplicably popular from the moment they open, garnering that illusive mix of buzz and critical acclaim right from the start. Chiltern Firehouse—the restaurant in the ground floor of an 1889 firehouse turned boutique hotel back in 2014, in London’s Marylebone neighborhood—is one such example.

Though, of course, the success of Chiltern Firehouse isn’t really so inexplicable. The whole outfit, after all, is helmed by the legendary hotelier André Balazs, the mastermind behind the Chateau Marmot and The Mercer Hotel. And its chef, Nuno Mendes, who earned a Michelin star for his work at Viajante, is turning out one of the most satisfying menus in the city. Those two factors—not to mention the restaurant’s clubhouse-meets-vintage-greenhouse vibe and celeb clientele that includes the likes of Tom Ford, Kate Moss, and Cara Delevingne—should be reason enough that it can still be near impossible to score a reservation at the restaurant.

Now, a recently released cookbook aims to capture a bit of that famed Chiltern Firehouse je ne sais quoi. And with more than 315 pages filled with gorgeous photos, the book does feel a bit like an immersive field trip to Chiltern Street. But, as Stephen Fry puts it in his foreword, the book is “first and foremost a recipe book”—and its pages will definitely make your mouth water as you pore through it. “The Chiltern Firehouse cookbook is a reflection of the work and passion of all the wonderful cast of characters that made the restaurant possible,” chef Mendes, whose warm descriptions and personalized instructions accompany each of the original recipes, explains.

Below, the chef and his team share three favorite recipes from the book, including one for a lavender-infused co*cktail, exclusively with Vogue.

Roasted Chicken, Kale, and Bread Pudding

Roast chicken and stuffing reminds me of my first years living in North America. In Miami there was a chain of restaurants that specialized in roast chicken, and stuffing was one of the side dishes. Since I had little money at the time and didn’t have a car, I would go to wherever my friends who drove picked, and this chain was a popular choice. They always seemed more interested in smoking and getting high than finding a good local spot to eat. My memories of those days are marred by some of the worst food experiences in my life! This chicken dish was created to please our diners but also to replace the memory of that bad roast chicken and stuffing with something tasty and exciting that will put a smile on your face.

IngredientsServes 4

2 very small corn-fed chickens, 1 2⁄3 lbs. (750 g) each, trussed (you can ask your butcher to do this)Hay, to stuff the chickens (organic, from a pet shop)1 T grapeseed oil2 T unsalted butter

For the mushroom puree:2 T golden raisins2 T dried cranberries7 T (100 ml) water3 T unsalted butter1 small shallot1 clove garlic, chopped1⁄3 teaspoon Maldon sea salt, plus more to taste4 1/2 T (65 ml) port2 T brandy1 T grapeseed oil, for frying9 oz. (250 g) shiitake mushrooms

For the bread pudding:10–12 oz. (300–350 g) brioche, crusts removed, cut into 3/4-inch (2-cm) cubes1 T unsalted butter1/2 clove garlic, finely chopped1/2 shallot, finely chopped3 oz. (80 g) kale, washed and trimmed (thick stalks removed)1 1/4 cups (300 ml) brown chicken stock6 1/2 T (95 ml) heavy cream4 free-range egg yolks1⁄14 oz. (2 g) rosemary leaves, thinly choppedGrated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon1/4 tsp. table salt

For the kale:2⁄3 cup (150 ml) waterPinch Maldon sea salt7⁄8 cup (200 g) unsalted butter, cubed2 1/4 pounds (1 kg) kale, washed and trimmed (thick stalks removed) and coarsely chopped

Make the Mushroom PureePlace the raisins, cranberries, and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover the pan with plastic wrap, and set aside for 1 to 2 hours until the raisins and berries have absorbed most of the water and plumped up.In a separate saucepan, melt 1 1/2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add the shallot, garlic, and salt. Cook gently for about 10 minutes, until the shallot is soft and almost beginning to caramelize. Add the port and half the brandy and cook for 5 minutes. When the alcohol has reduced, add the soaked raisins and cranberries along with any residual water and continue to cook.Meanwhile, heat the grapeseed oil in a large frying pan. When the oil starts smoking, add the shiitake mushrooms, the remaining butter, and the remaining brandy, then add the mushroom mixture to the pan with the reduced alcohol, berries, and shallots. Stir well, then transfer to a blender or food processor and blend on high speed until you have a smooth paste, then pass it through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Adjust the seasoning to taste, cover, and chill for 24 hours to allow the flavors to develop.

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Prepare the ChickenStuff the cavities of the chickens with hay and let them sit in the fridge, uncovered, for about 4 hours.

Make the Bread PuddingPreheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (170 degrees Celsius) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the brioche cubes on the tray and bake for 8 minutes, until lightly toasted and golden brown. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the garlic and shallot, and cook gently over low heat for 5 to 6 minutes, until very soft. Add the kale with a splash of cold water and cook over low heat for about 5 minutes, stirring, until the kale is tender. Remove from the heat, transfer to a bowl, leave to cool, then cover and chill. Once cold, coarsely chop the kale.Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a pan, then remove from the heat. Stir in the toasted brioche, cream, egg yolks, rosemary, lemon zest, chopped kale, and salt. Adjust the seasoning to taste, leave to cool, then cover and chill until needed.

Cook the ChickenPlace a large nonstick frying pan over high heat, add a drizzle of grapeseed oil, and swirl it around to coat the bottom of the pan. Sear one of the chickens on the crown first, then on all sides, until the skin starts to caramelize (but is not burnt or ripped), then add half of the butter. Push the chicken to the top of the pan, then tilt the pan gently toward you until the butter collects in a pool on the side of the pan nearest you and starts foaming. Baste the chicken on all sides with the foaming butter until it is golden brown, being quick so that the butter doesn’t burn. Repeat with the other chicken. Transfer the chickens to a wire rack sitting over a roasting pan.Set your oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit (100 degrees Celsius), then roast the chicken for about 50 minutes, until the breast side of the leg reaches an internal temperature of 150 degrees Fahrenheit (65 degrees Celsius) on a probe thermometer (this makes for a really moist chicken, where the meat fibers have just set, though if you prefer you can cook it for a little longer). Remove the tray from the oven and leave the chicken to rest, uncovered, for about 15 minutes, and reserve some of the juices from the tray. If you don’t have a probe thermometer, cook the chicken at a slightly higher temperature, and test that the juices run clear when a sharp knife is inserted into the thickest part of the leg.

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Cook the KaleWhile the chicken is resting, bring the water with the pinch of salt to a boil, then add the cubed butter a little at a time, whisking continuously to form an emulsion. Once you have an emulsified liquid, add the kale and cook for 5 minutes over medium heat.

ServeCarve the chickens, separating them into breasts, legs, and thighs. If the skin is not super crispy, baste it with a little bit of fat from the roasting pan, then place the chicken under the broiler on the hottest setting for 30 to 60 seconds.Warm 4 plates. Place 2 tablespoons of mushroom puree on the bottom of each plate. Serve 1 breast, 1 leg, and 1 thigh per person. Spoon a little kale around each plate and serve with individual portions of warm bread pudding on the side.

Lavender SyrupPhoto: Courtesy of Peden + Munk

Chiltern Aviation co*cktail

Serves 1

1 1/2 oz. (45 ml) gin (an aromatic gin with forward juniper notes—ideally a London Dry—works best)1/2 oz. (15 ml) Luxardo maraschino liqueur1⁄3 oz. (10 ml) Blueberry-Lavender Syrup2⁄3 oz. (20 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice1 strip unwaxed lemon peel

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Blueberry-Lavender SyrupThis wonderfully aromatic syrup is very delicate and versatile, with a bold floral top note, a fruity mid-palate from the blueberries, and a lingering perfume from the elderflower. If fresh lavender is not available, dried lavender will work—just make sure that the lavender is labeled for culinary use.

IngredientsMakes about 3 1/2 cups (800 ml) syrup

5 cups (1 kg) superfine sugar1 quart (1 liter) water25 fresh sprigs lavender, or 1/2 oz. (15 g) dried lavenderPeel from 1 unwaxed lemon14 ounces (400 g) fresh blueberries2⁄3 ounce (20 ml) elderflower cordialAdd the sugar, water, lavender, and lemon peel to a wide saucepan and place over medium heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat. Add the blueberries and elderflower cordial and bring back to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, uncovered, until the fruit is soft and falling apart. Do not stir. Remove from the heat and pass the mixture through cheesecloth into a clean heatproof container. Leave to cool, then chill or freeze. The syrup keeps well for three to four days in the fridge, or up to six months in the freezer.

Chiltern Carrot CakePhoto: Courtesy of Peden + Munk

Chiltern Carrot Cake

Every once in a while, we have a dish idea that transcends from the savory world into the sweet world.I have believed for a long time that every ingredient is a complex ingredient, with its natural sugars, natural salts, bitterness, sourness, and fat. All it takes is a change in perspective and ingredients can easily transcend their common place into a new world; the chef just needs to understand how to steer that particular facet of the product into a new light.This signature dessert started out as a turbot and carrot main course dish. We liked it so much that we turned it into a vegetarian dish, focusing on the carrots. It was very popular, but every time we tasted it, the sweetness of the dish was so interesting that at some point we decided to try it as a dessert. Interestingly, it didn’t take too much tweaking to make it into our classic Chiltern Carrot Cake.

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IngredientsServes 12 to 16

For the horseradish ice cream:2 1/2 cups (600 ml) whole milk1 cup (250 ml) whipping cream2 oz. (60 g) freshly grated horseradish2 sheets gelatin7⁄8 cup (175 g) superfine sugar1⁄3 cup (50 g) nonfat dry milkPinch Maldon sea salt

For the cake:2 vanilla pods4 free-range eggs1 2⁄3 cups (280 g) golden superfine sugar1/2 cup (125 ml) grapeseed oil, plus extra for greasing1/2 cup (125 ml) walnut oil2 cups (280 g) all-purpose flour1 tsp. baking soda2 tsp. baking powder1 tsp. Maldon sea salt2 tsp. ground cinnamon2 oz. (60 g) walnuts, coarsely chopped2 oz. (60 g) pecans, coarsely chopped14 oz. (400 g) carrots, grated3/4 oz. (20 g) fresh ginger, peeled and grated

For the carrot caramel:7⁄8 cup (175 g) superfine sugar1/2 cup (125 ml) carrot juice5 T (70 ml) heavy cream1 tsp. Maldon sea salt1 vanilla pod, split lengthwise7 T (100 g) brown butter

For the pecan granola:1 1/4 cups (125 g) rolled oats4 oz. (125 g) pecans, coarsely chopped1 T grapeseed oil2 T packed soft light brown sugar2 T maple syrupSmall pinch Maldon sea salt

For the vanilla syrup:Seeds scraped from 1 vanilla pod3/4 cup (150 g) golden superfine sugar2⁄3 cup (150 ml) water4 heritage carrots, to serveNasturtium leaves, to serve (optional)

Make the Horseradish Ice CreamMake the ice cream the day before you want to serve the carrot cake.Pour the milk and cream into a bowl and add the grated horseradish. Cover and leave to infuse for 12 hours in the fridge, then pass through a fine-mesh sieve into a large saucepan.Place the gelatin sheets in a small bowl of cold water and set aside to soak. Add the sugar, dry milk, and salt to the infused milk and cream mixture and place over medium heat. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes, stirring constantly with a silicone spatula, until well incorporated and the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat, squeeze excess water from the gelatin, and add to the hot cream. Mix well until dissolved. Transfer to a plastic heatproof container and cover the surface of the cream with plastic wrap to stop a skin forming. Leave to cool, then chill for at least 4 hours—ideally overnight—then churn in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Alternatively, if you don’t have an ice cream maker, freeze the mixture until hard, then process in a food processor until smooth. Keep frozen until needed.

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Make the CakePreheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit (160 degrees Celsius), grease a 12-inch (30-cm) round cake pan, and line it with parchment paper. Scrape out the seeds from the vanilla pods and add them to the eggs and sugar in a mixing bowl. Beat in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or with a handheld electric whisk) until light and fluffy, and doubled in volume. Slowly add the oils to the mixture in a steady stream. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer, if using, and gently fold in the dry ingredients with a spatula, followed by the carrot and ginger. Pour into the prepared pan and bake for 45 to 50 minutes in the center of the oven. To check if it’s cooked, push a metal skewer into the middle of the cake—it should come out clean. Remove and leave to cool in the pan slightly before turning out onto a wire rack.

Make the Carrot CaramelPlace the sugar in a saucepan with 2 tablespoons of water. Heat gently until the sugar dissolves, then increase the heat and cook the syrup until it starts to turn a deep golden honey color. Add the carrot juice and simmer for 2 minutes. Add the cream, salt, and vanilla pod, and cook until the caramel reaches 230 degrees Fahrenheit (110 degrees Celsius) on a sugar thermometer. Remove from the heat, add the cold brown butter, and emulsify with a stick blender. Pass through a fine-mesh sieve. When it reaches room temperature, whisk it in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or with a handheld electric whisk until thick and creamy. Store in an airtight container in the fridge until needed.

Make the Pecan GranolaPreheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit (160 degrees Celsius) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine the ingredients, spread them out on the lined tray, and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, stirring the mixture every 10 minutes.

Make the Vanilla SyrupPlace the vanilla seeds in a small saucepan with the sugar and water. Heat gently until dissolved, then remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

ServeUsing a sharp peeler, peel then shave the heritage carrots into ribbons. Tear the carrot cake into bite-sized pieces, arrange in a bowl with a spoonful of the carrot caramel, and top with a sprinkle of granola. Place a scoop of horseradish ice cream on top and cover with heritage carrot ribbons that have been briefly dipped in the vanilla syrup. If you like a peppery bite, add a few nasturtium leaves.

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Recipes reprinted with permission from Chiltern Firehouse: The Cookbook by Nuno Mendes and André Balazs, copyright 2017 by Chiltern Street Hotel, Ltd. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC.

TopicsLondonRecipesDiningChefs

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